Clutch Slave Cylinder
All Clutch Slave Cylinder products 95
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
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What is a Clutch Slave Cylinder?
A Clutch Slave Cylinder is a hydraulic piston unit at the gearbox end of the clutch hydraulic line on heavy commercial vehicles. It receives pressure from the master cylinder and moves its piston to push the release fork, which disengages the clutch. This way, engine power is transmitted to the gearbox without interruption, or is temporarily cut off by the pedal. In the workshop, this part is also called the clutch slave or simply the lower cylinder. Over time, the parts that wear most are the piston seal and dust boot.
How does a Clutch Slave Cylinder work and which parts does it include?
As the last element of the hydraulic line, it responds directly to pressure changes. Each part does its own job so that pedal movement is fully transferred to the clutch:
- Body: the main housing that holds the piston and seal bores and where the hydraulic connections are made.
- Piston: converts hydraulic pressure into push movement and transfers it to the release fork.
- Piston seal: stops fluid leaking past the piston; when it wears, pressure loss occurs.
- Dust boot: protects the fork arm and piston area from dust, mud and water.
- Union and bleed screw: the hydraulic line connection; air is bled out through this screw.
- Return spring: helps return the piston and fork arm to their start position when the pedal is released.
Clutch Slave Cylinder types
- Complete unit: body, piston and internal parts come as one ready assembly; used when the whole slave cylinder needs replacing.
- Repair kit: a set of worn parts such as seals, dust boot and O-rings; used for renewal when the body is sound.
- Scope separation: the clutch release cylinder and repair kit are listed in separate categories; this page covers only the slave cylinder group.
How to choose the right Clutch Slave Cylinder?
The most accurate method is to read the casting, label and reference code on the removed slave cylinder. Then compare the connection points, body shape and fork arm socket structure. Even within the same model series, Mercedes-Benz, MAN, Scania, Volvo and DAF use different layouts, so choosing by model name alone is a mistake.
| Criterion | What to check | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Reference code | Casting and label marks on the removed part | Similar-looking cylinders can differ internally |
| Connection type | Hydraulic line inlet point and union structure | A mismatched connection causes leaks |
| Body shape | Mounting feet and seating face on the gearbox | Prevents axial misalignment during fitting |
| Piston and seal bore | Piston surface and seal seat | Prevents pressure loss |
| Fork arm socket | Channel where the arm connects and spring seat | Ensures pedal movement is transmitted to the clutch |
Installation and maintenance tips
- Bleeding the air: if the system is not fully purged of air, the pedal feels hard and works incompletely; bleed through the bleed screw in the correct sequence.
- Clean working: hands, parts and hydraulic fluid must be clean before fitting; dirt quickly wears the piston seal.
- Fluid check: reservoir level and fluid colour should be checked regularly; darkened fluid shortens seal life.
- Dust boot check: a cracked or torn dust boot lets dirt in and must be replaced.
- Connection tightening: unions should be neither overtightened nor left loose; follow the manufacturer's advice.
Common faults and solutions
- Pedal is hard and the clutch does not fully disengage: air may be trapped in the hydraulic line; bleed the system and check the connections.
- Pedal sinks to the floor and does not hold pressure: the piston seal may be worn; a seal kit or complete slave cylinder is fitted.
- Fluid leaking around the body: a union has loosened or the body has cracked; tighten the connection, and replace the unit if it is cracked.
- Fork arm locks or does not return: the return spring may be tired or the socket dirty; clean and check the spring.
- Dust boot torn and wear on the fork arm: dirt and moisture have entered; the boot is replaced and the arm surface cleaned.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should a Clutch Slave Cylinder be replaced?
If the pedal sinks, fluid leaks or the clutch still does not fully disengage after bleeding the air, the part should be checked. If the seal set is enough, renewal can proceed; if the body has cracks, a complete unit is required.
Why is bleeding the air necessary?
Air trapped in the hydraulic line compresses under pedal pressure and does not transmit it fully to the fluid. This makes the pedal feel hard or prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. Bleeding should be done after the connections are checked.
What should be done if the dust boot is torn?
A torn dust boot lets dirt and moisture reach the piston surface, which wears the seal over time. The boot should be replaced, and the fork arm and piston area cleaned.
How can a fluid leak from a Clutch Slave Cylinder be identified?
Oily traces or fluid build-up can be seen around the body, at the unions or under the dust boot. The source of the leak should be identified before replacing the part, because the problem may also be in the connection.
Is the model name enough when choosing a slave cylinder for heavy commercial vehicles?
The model name alone is not enough, because engine, gearbox and clutch layouts can differ under the same model name. The reference code and connection structure on the removed part should therefore be used.